Saturday, 31 December 2011
Shelves
Friday, 30 December 2011
Eco Babble - Talking to the Alps
Eco logical or nomic
Engineering
Traditional Japanese building
Common confusions
Passive house
Good insulator
Eco points!
LEDs
Solar Power
Thursday, 29 December 2011
Don't even have to dream of one.
Monday, 26 December 2011
We're in!
When the removal men were in the house, they opened one door on the north side and one on the south side, which very effectively got a through draft of biting winter air. Even then, as soon as you went upstairs it was much warmer.
Thursday, 22 December 2011
Lots of bits of paper
Tuesday, 20 December 2011
We've got to move
The removal man came around yesterday for an estimate. As we're close we'll try and do some of it ourselves, with a little help from our friends, but it's going to be much easier to leave the big stuff to the professionals. Like many things in Japan there is a well-developed system for moving that will run smoothly and painlessly. The man was young and polite, wearing a suit and tie and holding a clipboard and calculator. He went around the house looking at what we've got and then totted it up on his check sheet. He gave us a 40-page A4 brochure that is both a showcase of their service, with reassuring pictures of their smiling, uniformed staff, shoes off and socks clean, and a manual for the mover. On the back it says "We care you", but I don't want to point out their omission. Prepositions have nothing to do with moving house.
When he left he gave us fifty boxes. Small ones for heavy things and big ones for light things. They have special boxes for wardrobes with hangers in, but we'll do the clothes ourselves and don't need any of those. Each box has a label where you can write the contents, and circle where the box is coming from in the old house and where it is going to in the new house, not just the floor and the room, but which part of the room. There is red tape to put on boxes of fragile things, and yellow tape for others. In the booklet there is a page of numbered and coloured stickers to put on the video and stereo cables and sockets, and presumably they will put everything in place and plug it in for you if you ask nicely.
After a few minutes going through the checksheet with his calculator, we came to the negotiation. He said we'd get away with a short two-ton truck for just taking the essential big things--the fridge, washing machine, desks, table and chairs. If we wanted to get everything in one truck we'd need a four tonner. We decided on a three-ton truck, and will start first thing in the morning moving stuff ourselves, and may well have some left over until the following day.
It's not that any of us are particularly acquisitive, but we've accumulated a fair amount of crap over the past eleven years living in this house. Now's the chance to look through and get rid of what we don't need, but also we're not very good at throwing things out. Maybe that's part of not being acquisitive. With clothes I partly blame it on being a second child with a close older brother, and only ever getting hand-me-downs. The only time I can remember getting new clothes is when we were all dressed up in the same outfits. Perhaps it's the other way round, and the cause is my own sartorial ambivalence, but I'm not interested in clothes and don't like to wear new things, and feel obliged to keep everything.
This may also be inherited from parents who were brought up during the war and rationing, when everything was precious and valuable and needed looking after. In these times of profligate consumerism, mountains of garbage and energy crises, it's difficult to argue with respecting anything for the intrinsic value of its resources and the time and energy that have gone into making it and bringing into your home.
And perhaps my Yorkshire roots have something to do with this. I'll not say that people from Yorkshire are mean, but they have a word, "thoil", that means to be able to financially afford something but not able to justify spending money on it. So it's going to be a busy week as I can neither thoil getting all our stuff moved by the professionals, nor throwing out anything that there's even a slim chance we'll use some time.
Sunday, 18 December 2011
So what does it look like?
A lot of people have been asking, for the past year or two, what the house is going to look like. And they're talking about the colour and finish of the exterior walls.
Now we're in the lucky position of being able to tell them. To be honest, it hasn't been my highest concern, and I've usually just said "white", then added "ish".
Structurally speaking, the outside of the wall is made up of strips of wood, covered with a layer of tar sheet, then chicken mesh, then some kind of cement, then another piece of state-of-the-art mesh that will inhibit cracks, and then plaster on top. Sorry for all the technical terms and trade names.
The choice with the top layer was between painters and plasterers. The painters use spray guns and are cheaper, while the plasters do it by hand and cost a little more. We were all set to get the painters with their spray guns, but in the end they were all very busy, so we were lucky enough to get plasterers.
This is a good thing, by all accounts, as plaster is more resistant to cracks and lasts longer. And we seem to have got the best plasters in the area.
As well as the state-of-the-art mesh just under the top layer of plaster, this was the first time they had worked on top of plastic brackets. There is 100 mm of insulation outside the structural frame of the house, and the insulator wanted to use plastic brackets to keep the insulation in place and mount the wooden frame for the external wall. Being a lot smaller than any kind of wooden structure, the plastic brackets improve the thermal performance. Hopefully they were all put on correctly and will be strong enough so it all holds in place!
The other choice to all this is ready-made sidings, which I can't help feeling would have been cheaper and quicker. If we had used highly insulating sidings, it may have contributed to the thermal performance of the house, and possibly saved some headaches or costs somewhere else. Also sidings would presumably be relatively easy to replace after they have absorbed a few years of weather.
Also, I'm sure there is some way of having double wall layers, with an air gap in the middle fitted into the ventilation circuit in some way. The idea is a little vague though.
Anyway, now you can see what the house looks like from the outside, and it's white. ish.
Wednesday, 14 December 2011
It's been snowing
Chaff Wall is made in Japan, from scallop shells. I've always loved scallops, although I don't think that was too major a factor in our decision. In the end they used a spray gun rather than rollers, which ends up using more paint, although takes less time, so I think made no difference to the price. I can steel feel the smell of the paint in my nostrils, and a lot of the windows in the house were covered in condensation from it, but it was a bit like walking around just after it has snowed, when everything is pristine and beautiful. The electrician can start putting the fittings in now, and hot and cold water pipes can all be connected, and we should be in at the end of next week.
Friday, 9 December 2011
Skirting boards and tiles
A composition
Composting seems to be a good idea in general. My dad was always a keen composter and we grew up with a couple of the classic square frame designs made from interlocking planks that would grow up as we emptied lawn mowings and things into it, and the other one would shrink as compost was used around the garden. We were all trained, so that if ever we ate melon, we had to cut up the skins into small peices so they would break down more quickly. We took turns taking out the compost bin from the kitchen.
At one point I was going to do an A-level project harnessing the energy of compost to make hot water. I think it was going to use a heat pump, although I ended up dropping that A-level in favour of more academic ones so I could get into a university engineering degree. A tragedy.
If you're living in an apartment it may not be very practical to compost your kitchen waste, but with a garden, producing it's own variety of foliage and requiring fertilization, composting seems like a good idea in our specific case too. Although over seven different kinds of rubbish are collected here, and burnable rubbish is used at an efficient incinerator that heats a swimming pool and spa, composting seems more sensible than putting garden waste into plastic bags to be driven away by a truck.
The garden behind the new house was getting a bit overgrown with weeds, so it seemed like a good idea to start composting now, so that when we start our garden in earnest next spring we'll have something to help our plants grow.
The first composter I made was an old bin with a broken bottom. I sawed the bottom off, and drilled holes every ten centimetres or so up the sides. This filled up very quickly and the pile of weeds next to it began to grow, so a larger scale solution was necessary.
I decided on a hexagonal version of the classic interlocking plank design. I'm sure there were many reasons for this, but I'm not entirely sure of a good reason. Perhaps you can think of one.
The hexagon has a slightly larger ratio of area to circumference than a square. This means that for a given amount of materials, you get a larger volume of compost. Nature's solution--the circle--has the highest possible ratio, which is why so many things are cylindrical or spherical. As well as being the most efficient use of materials, the corresponding lower surface area to volume means that round things end up with lower heat loss. This may be a factor in compost heap design as the heat they generate speeds up the work of the bacteria.
The difference between squares and hexagons is pretty tiny, barely significant in fact, at less than 10%.
Ignoring the widths of the walls, the ratio of unit area to circumference for a square is 1/4, or 0.25;
for a hexagon it is 1/2√(2√3), around 0.27;
for a circle it is 1/2√pi, around 0.28.
And all the materials I used were offcuts and discarded packaging materials from the house, so didn't cost me anything. The only materials I did buy, in fact, were screws, and the hexagon uses more of these than the square. Also the hexagon involves more work as each layer has six, rather than four components, each needing work on each end. The work itself is also more complicated for the hexagon, involving angles of 60 degrees rather than right angles.
So the hexagon, while theoretical a more efficient shape in terms of material use, in fact cost more in terms of materials, and took more work of a more complicated nature to make.
But time is free if you're having fun.
The hexagon may be a little more stable than the square, and there's something aesthetically pleasing about the hexagonal shape.
You can see how each part was constructed below. One of the major revelations for me was the power of power tools. I started off with a hand saw, and a hammer and nails. The carpenter let me borrow his power saw at one point, which he set to cut fixed lengths with ends at 60 degrees. This was quicker and easier. In view of the strange angle at the ends, the nails were not working so well, and on the carpenter's advice I started using screws. I also used my electric drill with a screwdriver bit. I've never done any serious amounts of woodwork, and only ever used a regular screwdriver, but the difference in speed was amazing.
Tuesday, 6 December 2011
The place looks like a building site!
Sunday, 4 December 2011
And now, in colour
Friday, 2 December 2011
A door that opens
|
Wednesday, 30 November 2011
So, will it have been worth it?
So you're sitting there, in your old house, knowing the paint is going to be dry in the new one pretty soon, so it doesn't matter that it's getting colder and that the guy who filled up the kerosene cans didn't put the lid on properly, and it spilt on the floor of the car, because soon you're never going to need any more kerosene.
You've already let the kids switch on the electric toilet seat warmer, and if it gets much colder you may actually plug it in. It's not going to be on for long though.
Then you read this: http://www.guardian.co.uk/sustainable-business/pooran-desai-interview-green-buildings
And you start to wonder, again, whether the extra mile was worth the few inches more of energy efficiency. The point of the article is that the difference between a high energy performance and very high energy performance building is not so great, but lifestyles will make a huge difference. So if you're eating strawberries flown in from India, your eco house isn't really going to be so eco. Riding a bicycle to work may not help your carbon credentials if your burning fat from an avocado from Mexico.
So what does the design of buildings actually do to change the way people live?
Or maybe this is just the nature of the media to find different opinions, and highly energy efficient buildings really are worth it; there are just other things to worry about too.
I still wonder how much the new house is just going to be a very stable environment, immune to the massive temperature swings outside, and what we're getting is comfort, rather than ecology. I worry that the lifetime carbon costs have been spent and then some in the construction.
There certainly are several fronts to fight on when we're trying to come to terms with a population doubling in a couple of decades.
So, going to back to the idea of a house that doesn't consume energy, at least symbolically this is a challenge to the consumerist aesthetic.
You can't make an omelette without using a few hundred kilojoules of thermal energy.
Thursday, 24 November 2011
19th December
Tuesday, 22 November 2011
Things I may always look at and just shake my head. Part one.
Wednesday, 16 November 2011
Spot the deliberate mistake.
The supply air splits straight after leaving the heat exchanger, then goes through two soundproofers. This should make the house a bit quieter. The clean air supply duct is insulated. That's why it's thicker.
The exhaust air duct is not insulated. That is the problem.
I know it makes some kind of sense to insulate the pipe coming in, because that's bringing in cold air from outside, but as it's a heat exchanger, the heat from the return air is largely transferred to the supply air, so by the time it goes out through the exhaust air duct, it's going to be close to the temperature of clean air supply from outside, and close to the actual outside temperature. So it needs insulation every bit as much as the insulated duct does. Perhaps there is some rational reason why there is no insulation there.
Monday, 14 November 2011
Not too late for the punctual thermal bridge - The North side revisited
Saturday, 12 November 2011
Picasa ate my albums - Blogger beware
I moved my computer from its summer residence in the cool north room of the house, to it's winter residence at the desk in the dining room, which is much more pleasant and cheaper to heat as the north room plummets through chilly to frigid. This was a move I had hoped not to have to make, but I digress.
I keep my photos on a terabyte external hard drive connected by USB to my antique laptop. The USB connection was a little bit loose, and I think for this reason, and because I was running Picasa while it was connecting and disconnecting, it removed a whole load of photos from a whole load of albums. I assume it was connected to the disconnection, although it may have been due to some other Picasan quirk. The original photos are kept in a series of folders on the hard drive. I start to make a new folder after about three or four thousand photos, because it just gets too unwieldy for my antique computer to handle. Of course the photos should all be in one folder, and I should be using tags with them, but that's another story. In fact that's what I really got Picasa to do, because it can add tags to the photos, such as captions and locations, and it can put them in any number of albums, easily including the same photo in several albums, which the old file and directory system can't do so well, without either cluttering up the disk with duplicate photos, or causing the trouble of having to add links.
The other thing Picasa can do is to upload and sync the albums on your computer to your webalbums. This is really useful except for two things. First is that the sync only goes one way. If you change albums on your computer, the changes will be reflected online. However, if you change albums online, the next time you switch on your computer bound Picasa, it will revert all the changes to the version there. Because of this, if or when it starts eating the photos from your computer albums, it fairly soon starts to eat the same photos from your web albums. It did this until I realised and switched Picasa off line.
Curiously, Picasa didn't take all my photos out of the albums; it left photos from the most recent folder (August 2011 to present) and just ignored photos from the older albums (8th June to August 2011, and up to 8th June). The only rationale for choosing to ignore these albums could be that I had set it to always look for photos in the most recent album, but only look for photos once in the older albums. This seemed logical as the older albums were not going to change, and Picasa had no need to keep scanning them, but with hindsight, and if you use Picasa be warned, and if you develop Picasa, pull your finger out: Either set the album to scan always or never. Setting Picasa to scan a folder once is a foolish option, and may mark the path to misery.
If only we knew the results of our actions before we took them!
So with reference to the speedy and helpful Picasa help forum, www.google.com/support/forum/p/Picasa and one piece of sound advice that didn't work, and a piece of less sound advice that did work, the problem was kind of solved.
The first piece of advice led me to the folder where Picasa keeps its album info, in files called "PAL". No pal of mine though. There were several folders with dates from each backup, so it was straightforward enough to copy the full albums from an older backup into the latest folder, and hope that Picasa would use these, and put my photos back in my albums.
Picasa did not, though. Trying all the different combinations and reboots, and even changing the database id number in each file were to no avail. I took the more drastic advice of another writer on the help forum, and deleted the database, so Picasa had to build a new one. When I then resurrected the album data from an older folder, all the albums came back in their former glory. Everything was fine except, and I was worried this would happen, Picasa now ignored all the albums it had made online before, and proceeded to make another 86 webalbums, with identical names, and usually the same collection of photos. Of course the URLs for them are different, so now I have the old albums full of partial collections of photos that are pointed to by my blog, and the new albums to which I will be able to continue adding new photos of the house, containing forthcoming details such as paint, wallpaper and floors.
So instead of writing about it, I should really be going through the albums and blog posts, and fixing all the dead links, so that normal service may resume.
Friday, 11 November 2011
South side, revisited
We need some shade for the downstairs windows, and we need a bit of a balcony upstairs, to hang out washing or futons, or clean windows, so the plan is for a balcony running the whole length of the south wall, sticking about 60 cm out from the house. With some care, it should be possible to get this the right height so there is around 45 degrees from the edge of the balcony to the top of the window, and it will let in every drop of direct winter sunlight until the end of February, and around 60 degrees from the edge of the balcony to the bottom of the window, so it will keep out all the summer sun from the end of April. Upstairs we have shutters that will allow some variation.
This is basic passive solar design, and not really rocket science.
We also would rather not have pillars sticking up in the middle of the terrace, which is in front of the middle window and the kitchen window. This means that some kind of beam needs to cross a span of around 5 metres, with minimal thickness. The idea in the final plan was to put up six pillars around the terrace, one in each corner, and one in the middle next to the bit of wall between the two windows, and another opposite that on the south side of the terrace.
These were all made of wood, and there seemed to be a lot of it. Although I've been demanding a 45 degree line to demarcate no-building zone up and away from the window, the actual results from the Passive House software on how obstacles will reduce incoming sunlight are more subtle.
The best estimate at the moment is that all the windows in the house will lose 2,400 kWh per annum, but they will gain 5,400 kWh in solar gain, so the windows are bringing in 3,000 kWh net, over the winter heating period. In very rough financial terms, we could call this 30,000 yen per annum, if we budget 10 yen for each kWh. This is the thermal output of the windows if we look at them as a heater. Of course windows in Japanese houses usually only work as heaters in the summer, and in the winter they are very effective coolers. They also work as dehumidifiers, turning humidity into condensation on the inside of the glass, and on the frames.
Of course we also got the windows to provide natural light, and to give us a view. Looking at the simple cost benefit of insulation, it would make a lot more sense to have no windows, and use electric light inside, but we don't want to live in a cave.
The house next door to the south, that I've estimated to be five metres tall and 16 metres away, will apparently reduce the amount of heat coming in by almost 300 kWh per annum. So the house next door has already taken away 10% of this total. 3000 yen per annum.
The amount of heat coming in changes with each adjustment of the windows in or out of the wall, and depending on what we do to each side, above, and to a greater extent in front of them. The passive house software estimates 5% of heat will be lost because the windows are not clean all the time.
I'm assuming that above the ground floor windows, there is a balcony 600 mm higher, sticking out 600 mm. If this comes down by 10 mm, we lose 16 kWh per annum. If, instead, it sticks out another 10 mm from the house, we lose 42 kWh per annum. Only 160 yen or 420 yen per year.
A bigger problem is that the horizontal part of the frame on the south side of the terrace was going to obstruct the sun's rays coming into the house. Around 80 kWh for a 120 mm beam, and 160 kWh for a 240 mm beam. That's 1,600 yen per annum. Over 5%.
So, we're getting rid of the pillars at the south of the terrace, and the wooden frame, and I was thinking about putting a frame of square-section steel on top of six wooden pillars. If it's steel, it should be able to span the five metres above the terrace without needing to be too thick. I was trying to work out the deflection, and it looks like a 150x150 mm beam will only move about a centimetre if I stand in the middle (one Mark is about 125 Newtons). As there are going to be two beams, the frame will move a bit less than this, and should feel solid enough. And anyway, the main job is to provide shade in the summer, and being able to walk along it is a bit of a bonus.
This sounds to be a non-starter though. A steel frame is going to be really heavy, and would need a crane to get it in place. Now that there's a house next door, that would probably mean a big crane to lift it over the whole building. Steel is a lot more expensive than wood, too.
After a little discussion it seems possible to loose the south side pillars and use a bracket from the pillar in the middle of the north side so we don't need a pillar in the middle of the terrace. The beam at the south may be a little thicker, but the effect on solar gain is at least five times less than the beams and pillars at the south sides. It should also cost less.
Another compounding issue is that we want to be able to get some shade over the terrace, probably for most of the summer. If we have some kind of permanent frame, it would be easy to hook up some fabric shading over it. If there is just a balcony, we could get some something like a shop awning that could be extended and retracted more freely, although this could be more expensive and may put a lot of torque on the balcony.
Also, I was wondering about growing vines up the frame, maybe kiwi fruit, which would produce shady leaves in the summer, and just leave branches in the winter. Of course the bare branches would still reduce the thermal gain, and this seems to contradict everything I've said above.
I do like kiwi fruit though. Apparently they have six times the vitamin C of oranges.
Monday, 7 November 2011
Security
It always seems to be a very safe country. Bicycle locks here would not last five minutes in the UK, but this is ridiculous. Not only does this guy seem to be using an extension lead for a bicycle lock, he isn't even using it!
Or maybe it's an electric bicycle with the motor built into the bottom bracket and batteries within the frames, and the extension is used to charge it.
I'm not sure to what extent the safety of Japan is a myth and a cliche, but we frequently leave the door of our old house unlocked, and even if it were locked, anyone who wanted to could very easily get in. In over ten years I don't think anyone ever has. The new house, with continental European technology on doors and windows is, by comparison, a fortress. We noticed a wire sticking out of the frame of the front door, and knowing it had something to do with remote unlocking were wondering whether we could hook it up to the door bell. It took us a long time to work out that this was not actually affecting the lock at all; just undoing the plate on the wall so the door could open when it's on the latch. European front doors generally open inwards, and usually have no handle on the outide, just a keyhole. Our door opens outwards, and has a handle, so triggering the plate on the wall to open is not going to help us a great deal, unless we have a visitor who doesn't know how a door handle works.
Saturday, 5 November 2011
A random assortment of websites
Zero energy house
http://www.asahi.com/english/TKY201106110161.html
A passive house in the US, and some tips that apply to all buildings, new or rennovated.
http://www.proudgreenhome.com/article/184246/Lessons-from-a-passive-house
Here's a self-build passive house in Wicklow, Ireland. Yes, you can do it on your own! They have some problems with suppliers and contractors too though!
http://passivebuild.blogspot.com/2011/02/progress-update-7-feb.html
Here's a blog about passive house building in the pacific North West.
http://www.rootdesignbuild.com/blog/
Net zero energy house
http://www.proudgreenhome.com/article/181951/Building-an-affordable-net-zero-energy-home
This is an interesting repository of building parts and designs. It gives scores for different options like this:
Thermal Control | 4 |
Durability | 3 |
Buildability | 2 |
Cost | 3 |
Material Use | 3 |
Total | 15 |
Info on low energy and new low energy standards in Japan
http://www.house-support.net/seinou/kaikou-dann.htm
Somebody else in Japan getting a container of Pazen windows:
http://ta-k.blog.ocn.ne.jp/blog/2011/05/post_593c.html
And now for something completely different:
Looks great and low budget, low impact during building, but a couple of obvious questions are:
What impact is there on the environment from people leaving cities and going to live in the woods?
Where's the toilet and bathroom?
This is certainly part of the solution though, and good luck to the lad!